Today, the razor wires and barricades lie in a neat pile on the sidewalk by the bridge.
Mendiola today, like other busy streets in Manila, is filled with people going about their daily routines. Establishments that line the intersecting streets of Mendiola, Recto, and Legarda open and conduct business as usual. Hustling, bustling, rushing to and fro, people engage another morning rush under a sky blanketed by clouds that although thin are enough to dull the early sun like a lamp shade.
Near the corner of Legarda and Mendiola, a newsstand is filled with newly arrived piles of the dailies. One of the broadsheets reads, “Satur taken for a ride.” Behind this newsstand, rows of photocopying machines take early orders from students who are perhaps cramming to review for exams or reproducing handouts for reports.
Delivery trucks park near the yellow MMDA sidewalk dividers. These yellow concrete blocks are stained by pollution, the smoke imprinted on the concrete like traces of fossiled grass. Two men in loose shirt with sleeves reaching up to their elbows unload piles of styrofoam food containers stamped with identical red labels that say “Chowking.” They unload more boxes of assorted supplies: piles of styrofoam cups, plastic jars of soy sauce, and sachets of ketchup, creamer, and sugar. A man in a Chinese collared polo, donning a navy blue apron over it, signs on a sheet of paper clipped on a springboard handed over by one of the delivery men before starting to take away the packages on a cart. Another man in a navy blue shirt and red pants arrives and helps in the loading.
People coming from the Recto side cross Legarda to Mendiola. Many among the crowd are students, betrayed by their white uniforms. There are young ladies whose white blouses are lined with pink at the edges and have four white buttons with pink inscriptions forming a square in the blouse’s midsection. There are also those who wear a one-piece white dress that reaches just above their knees; others have a navy blue tie and a navy blue skirt to go with their white collared blouses.
No matter in what fashion they wear white, the cut of their uniforms are generally the same: tight in proportion to their body size, but a bit tighter around the torso where the fabric clutch to their bodies, showing the curve from their stomachs to their hips. Some curve gracefully inwards, others outwards. As for the skirts, it was also cut such that the round contours of their legs get outlined through the fabric with each stride they take. And no matter the fashion of their uniforms, each one seem to have a leather bag slung on one shoulder and leather heels clicking on the pavement as they strut along the sidewalk.
Young men walk with the ladies in pink-lined white uniforms. The young men wear white collared shirts, blue denim jeans, and pointed leather shoes, some black, some brown. The men’s collared shirts are also of a tight fit, the sleeves clutching at their biceps.
The students carry either books, notebooks, clutch bags tucked in armpits, computer printouts of PowerPoint presentations, photocopies of readings, cell phones, or iPods. Many have earphones plugged on; those who do carry on with placid expressions on their faces which could be serenity, indifference, or a curious mixture of both. One man in a pink shirt and sunglasses walks by oblivious to others with his earphones on. His shirt says, “Mahal Q P Dn Sya.”
The streets themselves are busy, too. A smorgasbord of private and public vehicles crowds the streets, swelling the thresholds of the intersections at every red light. Green G-Liner buses (their signs say “Taytay”), yellow RRCG Transport buses, white Corolla and Sentra cabs, Pasig-Quiapo jeeps, Cubao-Divisoria jeeps, San Juan-Divisoria jeeps, Lealtad-Quiapo jeeps, and the FX counterparts for these routes all wait their turn to cross the intersection side by side with the Civics, Pajeros, Frontiers, Fortuners, Vioses, Crosswinds, Sport Runners, Cefiros, Optras, Bestas, and owner type jeeps among others.
At the mouth of Mendiola, just before the maroon island in the middle of the road, there’s a sign that says “PUJs without Mendiola franchise, no entry.” Occasionally, there’s a jeep, presumably with a Mendiola franchise, that turns right from Legarda to Mendiola, stops for a couple of minutes at the corner to wait for passengers then proceeds towards the direction of Malacanang Palace. There’s one such jeep now; its loud speakers booming out Air Supply’s “I’m All Out of Love.”
In the other side of the same corner, green- and black-topped pedicabs park in short queues of three or four at a time, five tops. Their drivers stand about chattering, running their hands through their disheveled and oily hair or stroking their stomachs under their shirts or sandos. Others slouch on their pedicabs, propping one of their feet up on the seat and stretching out the other lazily. They hug their knees, stroke their chin, and scratch themselves while staring out with glazed and unfocused eyes at passers-by. Occasionally, one among them would call out “O, Malacanang! Malacanang!”
Three stories above the busy intersection, suspended by a huge bridge-like structure, the train passes swiftly by, adding a low rumbling and high-pitched whistling to the indistinct but unmistakable din of motor noises, punctuated unpredictably by loud and horrible horns. The train, colored like the Lakers with purple and gold lines, glides along smoothly with seemingly supernatural grace above the clutter and entropy below.
On one of the massive cylindrical concrete posts that support the train, the one towering in the spot where Recto Street meets with Legarda, a tarpaulin hangs that says “Call Center Job Fair.” These words go with a smiling portrait of President Arroyo. Below the tarpaulin, the post is painted with circles and wavy squares in shades of brown. On the next concrete post supporting the train, the one on Legarda Street, the same shapes are painted, this time in shades of green. Both are signed “MMDA Art.”
All the activity on the ground however is offset by a dull and dreary background of buildings. Across the intersection, there is a five-story building. At the ground floor is a Tropical Hut store. Hopelessly entangled black electric cables almost obscure the store’s green and yellow sign. Near the top of the building there is a sign that reads, “For Rent. 3rd, 4th and 5th floor. Call 818-9684 / 818-9484. Look for Alice or Lita.”
More business establishments surround Tropical Hut. To the left are the large signs of Copytrade and BPI Savings Bank. To the right there’s Hot Pan de Sal and Mercury Drug.
The five-story building’s posts are painted white; the other parts of its facade an orangey-brown. But the white is more of a gray now.
The series of other buildings to the left of the five-story building compose a progression of decay. The next building, the one where the Copytrade branch is has walls painted pink but pollution grayed it horribly, the gray producing a more unsightly combination with pink than with the white of the earlier building. The layer of pink paint is peeled in places, showing irregular shapes of white, like wounds filled with pus.
The next building, a three-story, is painted white; yet again the city had painted it over with miserable gray through years of burned fuel smoke. On the second level of this building these words are painted on its facade: “East West Educational Specialist Co.” Below and above this banner, two rows of windows line the words with broken panes, like so much jagged and rotten teeth. Through the shattered windows, there’s only blackness.
The next building culminates the progression of decay. Its façade is bare concrete. As such, yes, it is gray. Unshapely blobs of black taint the chipped concrete. An electric post protrudes from the ground in front of the building, compounding the bleak façade with entangled thick black wires and a pair of transformers, like festering veins and malignant tumors. Two rows of broken and unhinged windows complete the dismal view.
Turning back to the streets below, more and more people cross the street in packs. Sometimes when they get caught by the green light, they stop together in the island. But they only look straight ahead or downward at their shoes or pants or skirts to check if they have got any kind of dirt or stain on it along the way. When they do look sideways, it is only to look at the oncoming vehicles. They do not regard each other. They are strangers; they stand so close yet stand so far apart. They stand solitary inside the shades of their dark glasses, the music of their MP3 players, or the privacy of their text messages.
They all walk under and stop by the monument of Don Chino Roces, frozen as he is in that haggard expression and defiant posture of his. In times past, crowds have stood on the very same spot the crowd today stands in, under the contrary atmosphere of united struggle. Today, Don Chino is surrounded by so much indifference, conformity, and mediocrity.
Honking horns, suddenly, can be heard in the distance, coming from the direction of Recto. Mixed with the chorus of horns, another chorus, this time of voices, is faintly carried through amid the busy activity in the intersection: a chorus repeating after a voice shouting on a megaphone, “Palayain!”
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